19 July 2013 Atlantic Ocean

We were due to dock in Torshavn, Faeroe Islands yesterday.  We had made our way to within viewing distance from the port, but the wind and the seas prevented us from going into port, our Captain only interrupts us over the speaker if it is something we need to hear immediately, I was in my abs class when he announced due to the weather he would not be docking at Torshavn, the safety of the ship and its passengers being paramount we would just turn into the Atlantic and head for New York.  It would have been lovely if we had made it, but it is quite often the case in this area that the winds prevent the ships docking.  A very big shame for the residents of the Faeroes as all tours are cancelled, I assume the docking fees still have to be paid, but whatever would have been spent yesterday did not happen. What I am going to do though is type in Hutch’s (our Port Lecturer) notes, mainly because the Faeroes are not well known, and Graeme Harris I am doing this mainly for you.

“The islands of the Faroes are not well known, and so many visitors are not ready for the treat that awaits them.  The breath-taking natural beauty that you find here is like nothing else in the world. There are 18 islands in all, 17 of them inhabited. Although they are volcanic in origin, these landmasses were sculpted by glaciers during several ice ages and display steep cliffs, deeply indented by fjords.   The movements of the glaciers can be seen in the ridges, which sweep from northwest towards southeast, and in the nearly flat tops of the lofty peaks.  As you might suspect, the strong and untamed currents make navigation difficult around the islands, so the native sailors are among the best in the world. 

Since the islands are about equal distances from Scotland, Norway and Iceland, it was obvious that they would become important stepping stones to the North Atlantic.  We aren’t certain who the first human visitors were, but it may be that Irish monks came here seeking solitude for their prayers.  We are certain that early in the 9^th century, Norse wayfarers from Orkney and Norway found their way to the islands, and settled here to farm.  The present Faroese language has it roots in the Old Norse language of the Vikings. 

Sheep grazing has always been important in the Faroes and the land is managed to prevent over-grazing.  Farming is limited, as few crops will ripen in the cool summer temperatures.   Potatoes, introduced in the 1800s, are the most prevalent crop.  Other root vegetables, like carrots and turnips, are also grown.  There are few trees, but they do grow where they are protected from the sheep and the wind.  Large numbers of evergreens, ashes and maples have been planted to good effect.  Interestingly, fossils found in coal seams include large trees and vegetation one would expect in a tropical rain forest.  So we know that the latitude and climate were once much different than today.

Vast numbers migratory seabirds bred here in the summer, including puffins, gannets, guillemots and oystercatchers.  Some Faroese supplement their diets with seabirds abd their eggs, which are traditional foods dating back to early times. 

 

The earliest settlers governed themselves through a democratically elected assembly called the Ting.  During the 11^th century, Sigmund Brestisson took possession of the islands in the name of King Olav I Tryggvesson of Norway.  Sigmund also introduced Christianity, which gradually eclipsed the old Nordic beliefs.  But ties with Norway also reduced their self-governing status.  The Union of Kalmar (1397) united all of Scandinavia for the first time, and the Ting became a royal court to enforce policy made elsewhere.  But the Union broke apart once again, and the Faroes became a remote province of Denmark.

The Danish king established the Lutheran Church by royal decree in 1535.  During this early modern period, the islands were beset by numbers of English adventurers and fortune-hunters.  The local hero Magnus Heineson cleared them from the area in the name of King Frederik II, and built the Skansin fort to guard the harbour mouth in 1580.  Magnus is still remembered with great pride and veneration.  But the Union Jack flew at the fort during World War II, when the Royal Navy established its headquarters there during what is referred to as the ‘friendly occupation’.  Two defensive guns remain to mark the spot.   

After the Peace of Kiel in 1815, Norway was turned over to Sweden, but the Faroes remained a Danish province.  Danish rule was unpopular among some nationalists, due largely to differences of language and economic policy. The Danes made honest efforts to reduce the ill feeling by financing public works and developmental projects.  After 1849, a local parliament was allowed once again, and the islands gained the right to send one member to both upper and lower houses of Danish parliament.  King Christian IX visited Torshavn  in 1874, and the event was marked by a memorial obelisk that stands on a hilltop in Torshavn.  Total self-government was granted in 1948.  Although the islands continue as part of the Kingdom of Denmark, they have not joined the European Community, primarily because of fishing rights. 

Today, Torshavn is as modern a capital city as it wants to be.  Picturesque charm in a robust climate seems more important than following every fad from the outside world.  The quality of life is high and the crime rate is low.  Before 1900 the entire community was on the Tinganes peninsula, between two separate harbors.  The modern town now wraps around both harbors, but still seems very compact.  The narrow Gongin was the main street, and still displays some fine old homes, mainly from the 19^th century.  The art gallery, natural history museum and history and maritime museum all focus on local interests but are unique for that reason.  The city park in Torshavn, with its small forest, is a source of special pride in a largely treeless land. “

There is a pop of 48,520 (April 2008), size of 540 square miles, language is Faroese (derived from Old Norse) Danish, capital Torshavn, government, autonomous region within the Kingdom of Denmark and the currency is Farose krona, Danish krone

All this is thanks to Hutch.  It probably would have been easier if I had asked Hutch for a copy of this to just plug in but now I know it myself as well.  I am spending the day in my bed today, my chest infection having got the better of me.  Sam is off at choir making sure I have all the right timings for the different pieces we are singing for our concert.

There was a beautiful concert last night by a fabulous pianist by the name of Chris Contillo, he was quite amazing and he will do anor concert before he disembarks in New York, he was telling us his Mum passed away four days ago and he came on board for us all the same, he said it was his Mum who made him what he is, we are indeed privileged to hear these people who are brought on board for us. 

I am going to re read my emails and answer some of them today, we have had extremely patchy or non-existent satellite owing to the location for the last good number of days, so with a bit of luck I can do this and get them sent off.  I just do them and this blog in word and then send them when I can, I leave the sending to Sam, I figure I type them he can post them.  All the best Love Sabine and Sam  XXX