We were due to dock in
Torshavn,
Faeroe Islands yesterday.
We had made our way to within viewing
distance from the port, but the wind and the seas prevented us from going into
port, our Captain only interrupts us over the speaker if it is something we
need to hear immediately, I was in my abs class when he announced due to the
weather he would not be docking at Torshavn, the safety of the ship and its
passengers being paramount we would just turn into the Atlantic and head for
New York.
It would have been lovely if
we had made it, but it is quite often the case in this area that the winds
prevent the ships docking.
A very big
shame for the residents of the Faeroes as all tours are cancelled, I assume the
docking fees still have to be paid, but whatever would have been spent
yesterday did not happen. What I am going to do though is type in Hutch’s (our
Port Lecturer) notes, mainly because the Faeroes are not well known, and Graeme
Harris I am doing this mainly for you.
“The islands of the Faroes are not well known, and so many
visitors are not ready for the treat that awaits them. The breath-taking natural beauty that you
find here is like nothing else in the world. There are 18 islands in all, 17 of
them inhabited. Although they are volcanic in origin, these landmasses were
sculpted by glaciers during several ice ages and display steep cliffs, deeply
indented by fjords. The movements of the glaciers can be seen in
the ridges, which sweep from northwest towards southeast, and in the nearly
flat tops of the lofty peaks. As you
might suspect, the strong and untamed currents make navigation difficult around
the islands, so the native sailors are among the best in the world.
Since the islands are about equal distances from Scotland, Norway
and Iceland, it was obvious
that they would become important stepping stones to the North
Atlantic. We aren’t certain
who the first human visitors were, but it may be that Irish monks came here
seeking solitude for their prayers. We
are certain that early in the 9th century, Norse wayfarers from
Orkney and Norway
found their way to the islands, and settled here to farm. The present Faroese language has it roots in
the Old Norse language of the Vikings.
Sheep grazing has always been important in the Faroes and
the land is managed to prevent over-grazing.
Farming is limited, as few crops will ripen in the cool summer
temperatures. Potatoes, introduced in
the 1800s, are the most prevalent crop.
Other root vegetables, like carrots and turnips, are also grown. There are few trees, but they do grow where
they are protected from the sheep and the wind.
Large numbers of evergreens, ashes and maples have been planted to good
effect. Interestingly, fossils found in
coal seams include large trees and vegetation one would expect in a tropical
rain forest. So we know that the
latitude and climate were once much different than today.
Vast numbers migratory seabirds bred here in the summer,
including puffins, gannets, guillemots and oystercatchers. Some Faroese supplement their diets with
seabirds abd their eggs, which are traditional foods dating back to early
times.
The earliest settlers governed themselves through a
democratically elected assembly called the Ting.
During the 11
th century, Sigmund
Brestisson took possession of the islands in the name of King Olav I
Tryggvesson of Norway.
Sigmund also
introduced Christianity, which gradually eclipsed the old Nordic beliefs.
But ties with
Norway also reduced their
self-governing status.
The Union of
Kalmar (1397) united all of
Scandinavia for
the first time, and the Ting became a royal court to enforce policy made
elsewhere.
But the Union broke apart
once again, and the Faroes became a remote
province of Denmark.
The Danish king established the Lutheran Church
by royal decree in 1535. During this
early modern period, the islands were beset by numbers of English adventurers
and fortune-hunters. The local hero
Magnus Heineson cleared them from the area in the name of King Frederik II, and
built the Skansin fort to guard the harbour mouth in 1580. Magnus is still remembered with great pride
and veneration. But the Union Jack flew
at the fort during World War II, when the Royal Navy established its
headquarters there during what is referred to as the ‘friendly
occupation’. Two defensive guns remain
to mark the spot.
After the Peace of Kiel in 1815, Norway
was turned over to Sweden,
but the Faroes remained a Danish province.
Danish rule was unpopular among some nationalists, due largely to
differences of language and economic policy. The Danes made honest efforts to
reduce the ill feeling by financing public works and developmental
projects. After 1849, a local parliament
was allowed once again, and the islands gained the right to send one member to
both upper and lower houses of Danish parliament. King Christian IX visited Torshavn in 1874, and the event was marked by a
memorial obelisk that stands on a hilltop in Torshavn.
Total self-government was granted in 1948. Although the islands continue as part of the Kingdom of Denmark, they have not joined the
European Community, primarily because of fishing rights.
Today, Torshavn
is as modern a capital city as it wants to be.
Picturesque charm in a robust climate seems more important than
following every fad from the outside world.
The quality of life is high and the crime rate is low. Before 1900 the entire community was on the
Tinganes peninsula, between two separate harbors. The modern town now wraps around both
harbors, but still seems very compact.
The narrow Gongin was the main street, and still displays some fine old
homes, mainly from the 19th century.
The art gallery, natural history museum and history and maritime museum
all focus on local interests but are unique for that reason. The city park in Torshavn, with its small forest, is a source
of special pride in a largely treeless land. “
There is a pop of 48,520 (April 2008), size of 540 square
miles, language is Faroese (derived from Old Norse) Danish, capital Torshavn,
government, autonomous region within the Kingdom of Denmark and the currency is
Farose krona, Danish krone
All this is thanks to Hutch.
It probably would have been easier if I had asked Hutch for a copy of
this to just plug in but now I know it myself as well. I am spending the day in my bed today, my
chest infection having got the better of me.
Sam is off at choir making sure I have all the right timings for the
different pieces we are singing for our concert.
There was a beautiful concert last night by a fabulous
pianist by the name of Chris Contillo, he was quite amazing and he will do anor
concert before he disembarks in New York, he was telling us his Mum passed away
four days ago and he came on board for us all the same, he said it was his Mum
who made him what he is, we are indeed privileged to hear these people who are
brought on board for us.
I am going to re read my emails and answer some of them
today, we have had extremely patchy or non-existent satellite owing to the
location for the last good number of days, so with a bit of luck I can do this
and get them sent off. I just do them
and this blog in word and then send them when I can, I leave the sending to
Sam, I figure I type them he can post them.
All the best Love Sabine and Sam
XXX
